in this video I'm
going to show what I
built that thousand
watt xenon arc lamp
into I built it into a
sort of
searchlight housing
and this is the
power supply for the
unit I took a
hundred amp arc welder
which is
basically a constant
current supply and
kind of reworked it
just in minor ways
and built it into this
box and I added
ampere and voltmeter
gauges to the front
so I can keep track of
what's going on
and the only control
on this power
supply as a single knob
which controls
the current setting
the open circuit
voltage is about 80
volts 70 or 80 volts
and when it's running
the arc lamp the
voltage is about 20
volts so 50 amps at
20 volts is the lamps
rating the arc
welder was originally
a Forney either
available on eBay it
was about $100 110
or twenty dollars and
I've never
actually used it for
welding so I can't
tell you how good it
is for that there's
the front of it there
Arctic inverter
and it's yeah so it's
an inverter a
constant current
supply it's a little
cramped in there but
you can kind of see
the basic idea under
this this is just a
duct to move some air
through some heat
sinks that are under
here there's a
bunch of fats or
switching transistors
or something and it
pulses power through
this large transformer
and then from the
transformer goes
through a inductor to
smooth out the pulses
coming through the
transformer and then I
also added that
large bank of
capacitors there that when
I first took this
thing up to the arc
lamp kind of as is the
arc the lamp
visibly flickered and
it wasn't a
flicker at 60 Hertz it
was like a a wild
arc like it was it had
a lot of high
frequency in it which
is exactly what it
had the switching
frequencies 20
kilohertz or something
like that so the
cats actually worked
very well and I
just put a whole Bank
them together so
that's a huge amount
of energy storage
there I also changed
the inductor this
this was the original
inductor
and it has about eight
or nine turns on
this toroid ferrite
coil and I added a
few turns but I think
this part may
actually have to be
changed because this
wire is insulated and
it gets pretty hot
when it's got 50 amps
going through it
for a while so I may
have to change that
or add a fan or
something the box itself
is just a rack mount
computer case or
something that I got
at the surplus
store and the meters
are off eBay
they're old analog
meters but they're
actually new
production from China just
one cooling fan at the
moment and I used
the original welding
cable actually
these cables came from
a battery battery
box for a car like a
jump starter type
battery and the actual
jacks and the
cables are welding
cables so here's the
actual lamp housing
I'll show you inside
and you can see the
arc lamp in a minute
the first time I
talked about this
starter circuit so
starting in our clamp
is actually fairly
difficult you need a
a very high power low
voltage supply 50
amps at 20 volts but
then you also need
a starting a pulse of
about twenty to
thirty kilovolts and
you have to build
this such that the two
power supplies
don't interact with
each other and
that's achieved
through this starting
circuit so the reason
the starting
circuit is placed
right on the side of
the lamp housing is
that that thirty
kilovolts is kind of
hard to contain so
the shorter the distance
of wire between
the starting circuit
and lamp the better
so in this case I just
mounted it right
on the side and the
heart of the
starting circuit is
this automotive
ignition coil which
produces you know 10
kilovolts maybe or
something like that
and it stores up
energy in this high
voltage capacitor and
then fires through
this spark gap and
after after firing
through the spark cap
there's a pulse
that goes through this
toroidal
transformer that I
wound myself so
there's about four or
five turns of
high-voltage wire
from the ignition coil
circuit and then
there's about eight
turns of high
current wire coming
from the power
supply to the arc lamp
so this does a
couple things one it
steps up the
voltage even higher
because there's you
know two to one or
three to one turns
ratio on that
transformer and it also
electrically isolates
the ignition coil
circuit from the high
power lamp drive
circuit the ignition
coil is driven by a
standard household
dimmer I just cracked
open the box and this
is what it looks
like inside it's your
basic Triax
circuit and it fires
the ignition coil
straight off of 120
volts AC and it uses
this motor starting
cap as a current
Lipnick device this
works way better
than any 12 volt
supply I've built for
ignition coils and has
the benefit that
you don't need a 12
volt transformer or
something in there so
that's cool this
capacitor is to try to
prevent the high
voltage thirty
kilovolts starting pulse
from going back down
the line to the
high current supply I
already blew up
one of those welders
maybe not because
of this reason I had
some other problems
with that circuit but
this capacitor
goes across the line
so that a spike
coming back from the
starting circuit
hopefully won't make
it in in its thirty
kilovolts apply so
here's a view inside
the lamp housing I've
got it set up with
the anode in the back
I'm not exactly
sure if there's a
convention or not but
I did it that way
because the focal
length of that
parabolic reflector
worked out better if
the animoves in the
back so that's how I have
it set up and
I made this phenolic
plastic insulator
there so that both
sides of the lamp are
insulated from the
metal housing I
thought that would be
important because
the thirty kilovolts
starting pulse
might be an issue if
one side of the
lamp was connected
directly to the
housing and it also
took pains to
make sure that there
is no clothes metal
even though it looks
kind of clothes is
actually a fair bit of
space
okay so let's fire
this thing up first
step when I turn on
there's a cooling
fan mounted on the
back of the housing
so I'm going to start
that up and you
may not be able to
hear me so I'm just
going to turn it off
now
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