Jukebox color wheel synchronizer---- make money online

I built a system to synchronize the two color wheel motors in a Wurlitzer Model 1015 jukebox. Originally, the jukebox used two synchronous clock motors, and the designers assumed that the motors would stay synchronous and keep the colors wheels at the same orientation after manually setting it. As it turns out, the torque required to spin the color wheels is enough to cause the motors to slip. Eventually, the color wheels get out of sync, and the left and right side of the jukebox do not match in color.

My upgraded system uses two small DC gearmotors that interface with the original drive mechanics via a nylon gear from McMaster. I drive the two motors via a PN2222A transistor and sense the position of the color wheels with the optical sensors from an old computer mouse. An arduino controls the motors via PWM (20 or 30 KHz), and runs a phase-locked-loop routine with P-I control. This system could use a little tuning, but it's pretty close.

hey everyone thought I'd show you what

I've been working on today this is a

project for my dad's Wurlitzer model

10/15 jukebox inside the jukebox there's

one of these color tubes on each side of

the jukebox and when this is running

there's a fluorescent tube that's

installed in each one of these color

tubes so as the color tube spins around

the color that's shown out through the

front of the jukebox changes the trick

is that you want both wheels

synchronized so that both sides of the

jukebox are showing the same color

change and the counter rotate so that

the colors change from outside in or

inside out your choice but you want it

to be symmetric and matched so

originally Wurlitzer used a clock motor

like this and their thinking was that

the clock motor would always be

synchronous with the 60 Hertz line

current going in there and everything

would be fine but actually it didn't

turn out to be the case apparently the

amount of torque it takes to rotate one

of these even though it's very low is

enough to make the clock motor not run

synchronously so what happens is one

inevitably goes faster than the other

and then the colors get out of sync the

first challenge was finding a motor that

I could interface to the existing

mechanics so I found luckily found a

nylon gear at mcmaster that had the same

pitch that these guys used and was

managed to press that onto a gear motor

that I bought from Genco and then fit

the whole thing into the existing

mechanical assembly without having to

cut anything original so since this is a

you know an antique a collector's item I

didn't really want to drill into the

existing brackets and this motor mounts

just by clamping on to the existing

frame I'd have to drill any new holes

these gear motors are very low power

I think stalled they only take maybe 100

milliamps or something at 6 volts

maximum but they have more than enough

torque to drive these and with the

gearing I figured out that right in the

middle of their speed range right at

about 3 volts

they were driving the speed of the color

wheels at the original speed the target

speed so I figured with you know double

the amount of speed available I would

have

for the control to be able to

synchronize the two wheels the

controller is just an Arduino with a

spark fun add-on shield and the motor

drivers just simple PN 2222 a

transistors I didn't really bother

smoothing anything out I did configure

the Arduino to run the motor PWM at

about 20 or 30 kilohertz or whatever the

maximum is and just sent that straight

into the motors and you I can't hear

them whistle at all so I assumed it's

fine for the sensors I just used a piece

of an old mouse circuit board and

originally these detectors were two

channels since they were decoding

quadrature signals but I just wired them

together in parallel for this project so

as you can see the two wheels are

rotating nicely in phase so let me just

introduce a phase error so on the bottom

of these there's four little pins and if

I pick it up and put it back down I'll

get a ninety degree phase there so now

you can see that the two are out of

phase and if you look at the output you

can see that it's noticed that this guy

is now lagging so it's sped up the speed

of this motor and hopefully it'll catch

up in about two rotations so they're

actually so it overshot slightly so this

this guy is actually now leading and you

can see the control dipped just below

the the medians or the average speed and

still slightly high so I have a few more

parameters to tune in there but as you

can see it works pretty well and for for

synchronizing the color wheels like this

it's not exactly a super high precisiPID loop type thing so the way this

works is it's essentially a phase locked

loop where the this cylinder is the

master frequency and this guy is the

slave frequency so the opto of sensors

are used on both of these to determine

the phase difference between them and

then the phase difference is sent

through a P I control loop and the

output from that is used to drive the

speed of the slave motor let's try a

bigger phase disturbance this time so if

I pick this up and let it roll past 90

to 180 let's see how long it takes that

to regain itself

you

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