No Dollar Wasted PC
Build Guide #Helpful Post
hello
welcome to tennis tech tips this
is
happening today I'm doing a pill guy
that
I invent a new thermal paste that I
can
actually use it to apply directly to
the
circuit let's see so you just do
this
very very gently and just put the
CPU
on you doing a build guide yeah I'm
doing
okay
you
know Linus said those were dead
right
you know Linus is dead right you
sure
you want to go with that one
it's
that antenna stick tubes okay near
my
near my eye I'll go I'll go
but
please subscribe if you want that
mystic
there's more hmm
yeah
okay I guess with Linus out of the
picture
everybody wants to get on in
front
of the camera but you know it has
been
over a year since our last PC build
guide
and I know you guys really want
them
the problem is that we have
sponsors
before but guess what
-
isn't here today I've got the company
credit
card and it's high time we fixed
that
so let's get cracking to build the
best
bang for buck 1440p 60 FPS gaming
experience
we can mustard without
triggering
the fraud alert he won't know
him
and once he's done freaking out of
the
statement he can think about saving
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now
before we get our hands dirty we
should
first make sure that our hands
are
clean and Static free we can do the
form
with some soap but the latter will
require
being grounded now some veteran
builders
will tell you that if your
environment
is humid ESD isn't a great
danger
especially with today's thicker
PCBs
and protection circuitry and this
is
true to some extent so in a pinch
simply
touching something metallic
that's
got a path the ground regularly
will
do but if you're building a PC
you're
going to want to invest in an ESD
solution
now they aren't expensive and
we
don't recommend continuing without
them
when you do use any SD strap or ESD
mat
bear in mind that they must be
connected
to ground via an outlet or
something
metallic with a path to ground
in
order to be effective noticing a
pattern
it's all about the path to
ground
no ground then there's no ESD
safety
as for our other tools our
handy-dandy
multi bit screwdriver is our
best
friend
we'll
use this magnetic parts tray for
screw
management magnetic project mats
also
work great here and you can even
use
a pill sword at a pretty good effect
that
takes care of the pre-build prep
and
tools but for cable management and
you
are going to manage your cables
right
the most useful tools we have are
velcro
tines like these handy-dandy
Linus
tech tips brand ones a pair of
side
cutters like these and a handful of
tweezers
oh sorry
I
mean zip ties needle nose pliers can
help
when using these in tight spaces
but
you know they're not strictly
necessary
because as you'll see most of
our
zip ties are going to be quite
accessible
now as always it's a good
idea
to plug in all of your components
for
a dry run before you fully assemble
your
build now this is a good way to
troubleshoot
any issues that may arise
such
as an incompatibility or a DOA
component
so you use your motherboard
box
as a case it's non conductive and
usually
sturdy enough to handle the
weight
of the board cooler and GPU so if
your
machine powers on and transmits to
the
display you're ready to move on when
it
comes to CPUs we're spoiled for
choice
thanks to ambient Intel playing
tit
for tat over the last year or so for
us
the best value for our money is the
rise
in v 2600 9x from AMD which unlike
Intel's
price
the
core i5 eighty four hundred or
ninety
four hundred F can be overclocked
it
also has twice the number of threads
which
newer games like ApS legends can
take
full advantage of so with that in
mind
anybody steals the show at this
price
compared to their own previous gen
Rison
five 1600 X the 2600 is slightly
faster
on average thanks to precision
boost
- and typically has more
overclocking
Headroom for a price
difference
of just about six dollars
retail
to install the CPU lift up the
retention
arm on your motherboard line
up
the triangle on the chip which is
right
about there with the triangle on
the
motherboard and gently yeah there we
go
place it into the socket it should
just
drop in if the pins are aligned
correctly
so just visually make sure
that
the CPU is flush with the socket
before
pushing the retention arm down to
lock
it in place you may also join to
gently
press down on the chip while you
do
this to ensure it doesn't shift
around
but gravity really should do the
job
now our CPU comes with its own
cooler
and ease own wraith stealth and
we'll
be using it here to save money for
more
than a mild overclock we'll want to
replace
it but for now we can go ahead
and
install it by first removing these
two
plastic clips on the motherboard
which
helpfully just use standard
Phillips
head screws
once
that's done remove the coolers
plastic
shield covering the thermal
compound
if necessary this one just kind
of
fell off line up with the socket like
so
the thinner gauge here should go
towards
the top and then we just screw
it
into place where those plastic clips
used
to be now you don't want to
immediately
tighten these screws because
if
you do then it'll make screwing the
other
ones in more difficult for one and
two
you're gonna want to try and use an
X
pattern to evenly distribute the
thermal
compound here from here all we
need
to do is plug its fan cable into
the
CPU fan header on our motherboard
like
so and our CPU and cooler are now
fully
installed onto the memory now fast
memory
is something that Rison like me
loves
to chew on but because fast memory
gets
expensive quickly we're primarily
focused
on gaming performance there are
diminishing
returns at the time of
writing
G skills Agis ddr4 3000 16
gigabyte
kit is the sweet spot based on
lots
of
available
as it's priced in around the
brain
you typically find 21 33 or 2,400
kits
unfortunately since it was oh boy
okay
that's gonna make it in
unfortunately
since it was backordered
when
we went to buy it and we had to get
the
parts in time for this video we had
to
settle for this g.skill ripjaws 5 at
a
similar price if he wanted to grab a
30
200 megahertz kit though we'd be
paying
that rather $25 with a privilege
for
not much real world game if you've
never
installed ran before then good
news
it's super easy but there's one
thing
you want to keep in mind if you
want
to take advantage of dual channel
and
with rising you probably will you'll
need
to make sure that you install your
memory
in alternating slots so 2 & 4
just
pull these tabs back line up the
little
notch on the memory with the
notch
in the slot and insert now you'll
need
to push down a little bit until you
hear
a little click and on the other
side
as well you'll take a little bit of
force
but not a whole lot you don't
really
need to worry about breaking
anything
but you might feel like you're
putting
too much force in so let's do
that
with the other stick and just
visually
inspect that we can't see the
pins
and that everything is flush now
we've
been plugging stuff into this
thing
but we haven't really gone over
what
it is yet we've gone with the
asrock
be 450m pro for an inexpensive
micro
ATX AMD motherboard with 4 Ram
slots
and crucially the ability to
overclock
our CPU now because the B 450
M
pro 4 happens to have decent VRMs for
power
delivery we should be able to
obtain
reasonable results with our risin
5
2600 otherwise it's actually pretty
unremarkable
with no official support
for
SLI just crossfire and fine array of
i/o
that includes a VGA port DVI port
and
HDMI port that are only useful for
an
APU not for us
now
to be clear we could have gotten
away
with a $50 board instead of a $70
one
if we didn't care about overclocking
support
but where's the fun in that we
are
going to use this guy we literally
chose
the cheapest case available
okay
fine I'll talk about it this is the
rose
well SRM 0/1 a micro ITX case
that's
about what you'd expect for its
common
sale price of twenty dollars
difficult
to open box for one doesn't
weigh
anything what is going on here so
for
$20 you get a case that weighs
nothing
with very data aesthetics it's
got
a single underside dust filter
limited
cable management a single front
USB
3.0 port on the side with the rest
be
2.0 this thing is not going to be
easy
or fun to build in but that's not
the
point of this build is it the point
is
to get the best bang for the buck and
if
it doesn't improve performance we're
just
going to have to live with it
thankfully
we do have thumb screws one
thing
that it does have is this drive
tray
and guess that is what it is so if
we
take out these two screws here one on
the
bottom and one towards the top like
so
haha
it swings out of place so yeah we
can
get a GPU in here if you want to
which
we'll have to so this gives us all
the
room we'll need
although
just barely now before we move
on
we need to get the case ready to
actually
work in first we'll need to use
these
thumb screws to take off both side
panels
yes the rear one too and yes they
actually
gave us thumb screws on the
rear
with that done we'll remove the
front
panel so we need to grip this
little
slot down here and just pull
outward
there's no latch it should just
pop
right off and from here all we need
to
do is just pull these cables through
gently
they
aren't held in with anything
they're
just rotted right through now
there's
not much in the way of cable
management
on this front panel there's
nothing
particularly special about it
but
it does have these screws with wide
rims
that hold everything into place so
you're
gonna want to take this one off
next
to the LEDs and that'll free them
up
but we don't want to remove them what
we
want to do is take these for the
power
and reset sway
and
route them down with them and from
here
we'll want to take the LED wires
and
pull them through here until they're
about
the same length and loop slack
like
that what we can do from here is
replace
that screw and that has all of
our
front panel connections at pretty
much
the perfect length to reach our
motherboard
as for the USB 2.0 front
panel
audio and USB 3.0 cables these are
relatively
easy to figure out what we
can
do is just push them through here
and
then out through this cable
management
port for the power supply can
be
a little bit tricky because these
wires
are thick but once we get it three
fills
out our front panel back through
and
close it back up should just snap on
once
you get the posts aligned and there
we
go so why did we go through the
effort
of doing that so doing it this
way
means that our cables have just
enough
slack go where they need to go
without
having any extraneous length
that
we need to deal with later on for
cable
management which will be a chore
speaking
of the motherboard we can't
celebrate
yet because we still need to
install
that and this is where we run
into
our first real problem with
cheaping
out on the case if we look in
this
baggie here there are actually only
six
brass standoffs included there are
no
other stand-ups and our motherboard
has
eight mount points that means we're
going
to have to choose where we need
the
most support so we need to determine
where
and this is why people don't like
wearing
ESD straps in this case it looks
like
we're going to need the most
support
in the top left the top right
everything
in the middle because that's
where
our GPU is gonna go and probably
the
bottom middle here where a front
panel
connects in and unfortunately that
means
the rest of it is going to have
paying
loose which means the bottom
right
here bottom left
and
the top-middle are gonna sag a
little
bit if you try to put any
pressure
on them
so
with that mapped out in the standoffs
go
now if you do decide to use a
screwdriver
for these be very careful
because
these are made of cheap brass
and
this is very thin steel it will
strip
and you're going to have a bad
time
better to just use your fingers to
tighten
them no I probably should do
this
with a screwdriver once we're done
with
that nonsense we won't forget our
IO
shield which snaps into place from
the
inside but we want to make sure that
it's
oriented correctly in this case the
audio
ports will be on the bottom now we
can
finally get our motherboard
installed
for realsies now a pro tip for
anyone
building in an older design case
like
this install your front panel
connectors
now while the motherboard is
still
outside the case this little lip
down
here is going to cause so many
problems
if you try to do it afterwards
now
you'll want to check your
motherboards
manual just to see where
everything
plugs in but typically the
power
switch is going to go into the top
right
the reset switch will go right
beneath
that and then hard drive power
that'll
go next to the reset switch to
the
left
positive
usually is to the left which I
believe
that's what the silkscreen says
and
we'll do the same for the power
switch
your power LED alright so with
our
front panel installed let's get our
motherboard
in so we'll get it down
under
here hold this out of the way so
it
doesn't get trapped underneath and
line
it up with our i/o shields so if we
align
this laterally you'll see the
brass
standoffs show through which will
tell
you that you have all your
standoffs
in the right positions so
since
we can see them we can count them
to
make sure we have them all in the
right
spots so we have one two three
four
five six so with the standoffs
applied
to the screw holes we'll take
these
fine threaded screws
screw
it down starting at the center
keep
everything aligned don't mind me
I'm
just gonna keep screwing these in
for
the rest of time yeah I don't duh
this
is such a pain do you remember how
I
said you should plug in the front
panel
before yeah yeah put the board in
I
forgot to put in these front panel
connectors
II oh yeah and then I forgot
my
own advice about lifting this stupid
cable
out of the way now let's get those
screws
back in okay that was a lot of
work
just to get the motherboard in but
the
fun's only just begun because we
haven't
gotten to the power supply yet
just
rethinking my life decisions right
now
anyway you might expect that we
cheaped
out on the power supply tube but
it's
actually quite important for a
variety
of reasons the most important of
which
being the longevity and stability
of
your computer's components for that
reason
we set a stipulation that the
power
supply we chose would be 80 plus
bronze
or better capable of 500 watts or
higher
continuous output and come with a
five-year
warranty at minimum the least
expensive
power supply that takes all of
these
boxes is the corsair CX 550 which
given
black of modular connections means
our
phase choice is about to take our
proverbial
bus because unlike most
modern
cases the SRM 0 1 from Rosewell
mounts
the power supply up top which
means
not only do we have the line it up
manually
but even though it does have a
lip
for the power supply to rest on
we
still need to hold it in place while
we
screw it in or it could fall I want
to
go home it's probably obvious but we
can't
actually get this power supply in
here
until we get these cables routed so
let's
do that
this
little hole in the back here is
quite
convenient for routing our power
supply
campus oh and by the way because
this
power supply mounts up here it acts
as
an exhaust that's actually what it's
designed
for back in the day so we're
gonna
want the pan on the bottom yeah so
yeah
I just got off screw it in then
power
supplies in so this mess is why we
couldn't
install the power supply lying
flat
and it's also why we couldn't
install
the global VPS connector while
the
motherboard was outside of the case
like
we normally recommend we could have
maybe
install the power supply first but
that
wouldn't really have made our lives
much
easier so let's go about routing
these
things shall we the MM ATX cable
is
pretty easy just go into this little
hole
here thankfully the 24 pin just has
these
extra 4 pins here it's the 20+4
ATX
connector which helps in managing
these
cables just make sure they're
clipped
together and push it down until
it
clicks alright so now for the 12-volt
EPS
connector and that's gonna go
through
this little hole here once it's
through
snap it together then line it up
which
can be a little bit tricky
thankfully
we've got plenty of clearance
so
with it in slot push down until you
hear
the click now the next thing we're
gonna
want to do is pull all of the
slack
from inside the case to this side
of
the case and that will leave as
little
as possible
for
us to deal with on the inside we'll
also
probably never need these cables
here
at least not right now so we can
push
those back through if I had been
thinking
ahead I would have just not
routed
them through but
yeah
that's not what we're doing today
so
since we'll basically never hang
these
we can tie them off and leave them
in
this conveniently located five and a
quarter
inch Bay that will also never
use
because who owns an optical drive
anymore
so into this little drive bay
these
go and we never have to look at
them
again
speaking
of storage we chose the WD blue
250
gigabyte m2 module for its low
profile
and low cost now I know you can
get
cheaper SSDs but this was the
cheapest
that included that D Ram cache
which
is extremely important for
performance
as we've seen in the past
now
to install the module we're going
had
to find the m2 slot on the
motherboard
for our drive the problem is
that
the one in the center of the board
here
labeled ultra m2 is only for nvme
meaning
that our SATA SSD needs to go in
the
other slot which is conveniently
located
down at the bottom right of the
board
so we'll line up the notches on
the
end of the module with the key on
the
slot and it goes should go right in
we
won't see any more pins so we can
then
take this retaining screw screw it
down
and we're nice and secure you'll
notice
that it covers up the bottom
middle
motherboard screw which is why we
didn't
install it before now 250
gigabytes
of solid-state storage isn't
enough
for everything we want to run on
this
machine
I
mean individual games commonly can be
up
to 50 gigabytes or larger these days
I've
seen some that are like closer to a
hundred
and that's why we've got this 2
terabyte
Seagate Barracuda
which
critically is a 7200 rpm drive
meaning
that while it's more
power-hungry
than the slower 5400 rpm
options
we'll be loading our games more
quickly
plus since it's an older model
it's
just as cheap now we've got a
couple
of options for mounting the drive
and
neither are very good the first
option
is to just install it into the
bottom
of the five and quarter-inch Bay
where
the guide rail is provided but
unless
you have a long neck screw driver
you're
just not going to get a solid
mount
with that in mind we'll be
mounting
two
this
yes I am serious now the manual
says
to mount the drives here with their
connectors
facing the rear of the case
like
this but we'll get much cleaner
cable
management if we mount it like
this
with the connectors facing the
front
we can hide those cables through
the
front panel or via the five and a
quarter
inch bay in case you're
wondering
yes we could mount the drive
or
second drive to this bottom half here
but
that would interfere with our GPUs
PCI
Express connectors when we go to
install
them as you'll see speaking of
connectors
now it's time to cable manage
this
thing we've been kind of doing that
the
whole time but now that the drive is
securely
mounted it's time to tidy up
the
cabling in preparation for the GPU
which
will be the last thing that we
install
here and of course we need to
get
the drive wired up and yeah you know
if
I were thinking more clearly I
probably
would have done the cable
management
before the drive but since
our
velcro ties are actually too big for
the
loops that are provided here on the
case
oh go ahead and run these now and
then
cable management then afterwards
just
to tidy things up thankfully we
only
have the one that we need to run
all
I need this to be hanging out here
either
I'm not very good at this
remember
that SATA cable chain that we
left
out at this point this is where we
need
it going to cross it over like this
with
one of my handy-dandy tweezers clip
this
off or not there we go and now
you've
got just enough length here OOP
that
hurt to feed it down through this
hole
here it's a little difficult to see
there
we go as a bonus we can fish this
up
through that seen hole and we can
send
it out through here but that we can
go
back down here with the rest of the
front
panel cables
and
plug directly into the motherboard
then
we can close it back up
now
we have a fully connected drive with
basically
no mess so taking care not to
cross
over any cables we'll slide our
USB
3.0 header into here and plug it
directly
into the board like so I kind
of
hate those connectors but we will
have
to pull the slack back out but
gently
because these connectors have a
tendency
to either break or pull loose
with
very little force so with that done
now
we can start tying these up now this
step
isn't terribly important but it's
important
to me
flatten
out a little bit all right so we
need
both of these but we only need one
of
them to have all of their connectors
so
we can tie one of these back just for
the
sake of neatness so we can fish both
of
these through here then I can tie
this
down like so now I need to figure
out
what to do with this guy that'll at
least
keep it in place more or less
although
I would really like another
cable
management point now one thing you
might
notice is that it actually isn't
flush
with the sides of the case but
that's
not actually a bad thing because
our
panel has this nice big bump on it
which
lets us just slide it on okay and
the
front looks pretty clean too which
is
a good thing because now we need to
install
our graphics card now our goal
for
this build is a 1440p 60 capable
machine
so for that we're turning to the
geforce
r-tx 20 70 gaming OC card from
gigabyte
it's about $12 or 3% more than
the
standard gaming card but it's cloth
tick
with 7% higher which means it's a
trade-off
worth making in the pursuit of
absolute
best price to performance at
this
budget anyway and yeah let's get
this
in to install our GPU we're first
going
to need to break off these tabs
that
come
the
PCI Express slots now this is a
hallmark
of Cheaper cases and nothing to
be
concerned about you can just gently
stick
a screwdriver in here like so to
kind
of get it out of position and then
you
can just kind of bend it up and down
a
few times like this and then just
break
right off now we already have most
of
ours free because I did do a test fit
in
this but for you guys you're going to
have
to pry these free
so
once the slots are free it's time for
the
main event now the first thing we
should
do is make sure that the tab on
the
back of the slot is in the down
position
it was already there but if
it's
up just push it down that will
unlock
the retention clip for our GPU
which
can go in like so now one more
thing
to note this case has basically no
room
back here install your PCI Express
power
connectors first before you do
anything
else
now
angling this in is a little bit
tricky
in a case like this but once you
have
it aligned all you need to do is
give
it a little press until you hear
the
click now what we need to do is
screw
in our retention screws now once
you've
tidied up the PCI Express cables
and
gotten everything nice and organized
it's
time to take a step back and admire
your
work it's been rough but we're
almost
done it's time to go ahead and
slide
the side panels back on and secure
them
into place with the thumb screws
like
so so now we'll plug everything in
and
wait the longest few seconds of our
lives
it's
powered on
bullet
post Oh keyboard lit up okay as
Rock
helpfully as Rock shows you exactly
which
key to mash so we just mash delete
or
you can hit f2 now most of this stuff
in
the BIOS will probably want to leave
it
defaults for now but primarily what
we
want to do here is enable XMP which
can
be done by going over to the OC
Tweaker
then going down to XMP setting
and
choosing X and P 2.0 profile 1 and
we
should see that our Ram is now
running
at the proper speed which is
great
so we will go ahead and do Save
Changes
and exits all right looks like
Windows
is installed I won't go into the
step-by-step
on how to do that but for
those
of you who are stuck and do want
to
install Windows grab an 8 gigabyte or
larger
USB key and put it into another
computer
that's already running Windows
from
here you can download the media
creation
tool from Microsoft which can
automatically
set up a Windows installer
on
your USB key once that's done just
plug
it in reboot it should
automatically
start the Windows setup
process
and once that's done you should
already
have all of your drivers
installed
out-of-the-box but you'll want
the
latest Nvidia driver along with the
AMD
chipset driver which you can grab
from
their respective websites now as
for
how this thing performs well I've
already
loaded up the drive with a bunch
of
tools and games to test drive so
let's
give it from spinning jelly I
guess
ok yeah that's about what I'd
expect
Linus likes doom let's use a
shadow
the Tomb Raider and run the
benchmark
yeah that's pretty good high
60s
1440p highest up above 70 now it
probably
dropped down to like the low
60s
at minimum yeah Wow ok that's
actually
more impressive than I thought
it
would be so there you have it an
unassuming
box
well
wired and filled with nothing but
the
best bang for buck components you
can
get for $1,000 or less absolutely no
fluff
this plate makes magnet mounted
metal
prints that are durable
and
don't require any power tools in
order
to hang them they've got over a
quarter
million different artworks
spanning
a bunch of different styles and
influences
and with their easy magnetic
mounting
there's no holes in the wall
and
you can easily replace them we plant
ten
trees for every display purchased
and
you can use code Ltd to save 15%
through
the link in the video
description
thanks for watching guys
this
video sucked you know what to do
but
it was awesome get subscribed hit
that
like button check out where the
link
to order buy some of the stuff we
featured
in the video description also
linked
in the description is our merch
store
which has cool shirts like of this
one
and our community forum which you
should
totally join also let me know you
guys
want to see more of us writers
being
in front of the camera more often
or
would you rather - or would you
rather
some kind of combination of the
best
of both worlds yeah we win
Gladys
is retiring forcibly
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